Here we have a beautiful 1920s – 1930s ladies rectangular watch by Germinal. It has a quality 18ct yellow gold Swiss made case. The front of the case provides a canvas from the exceptional and complex coloured enamel design. Formed of floral patterns in a geometric manner, the quality, execution and colour of the enamel is excellent. It surrounds the square dial with the italic font Arabic numerals and the square railroad track. The dial is signed Germinal below 12, with the thermally blued Breguet style hands. To the rear the case has a rubbed hallmark for the head of Helvetia and 18k stamp with the reference 3090. Inside is the 15 jewel manual wind movement, marked Germinal 3 adjustments. It has been recently serviced and is functioning well.
Germinal History:
Germinal Voltaire watches trace their origins to 1848 when it began as Meyer Freres. In 1895 Picard & Cie registered the trademark for watches and watch parts, with the company reformed in 1901 under the same name. By 1915 the company was known as Fabrique Germinal. They produced early wrist watches, ultra-flat pocket watches and chronographs in La Chaux de Fonds.
The watch:
The case measures 14.25mm wide x 21mm in length. With the lugs included, the total length is 28mm. This is a neat rectangular design, which has a small dial, with the front of the case providing the canvas for the enamel work. The dial is an aged silver tone and is simple and balanced. It has Italic font Arabic numerals with the square railroad track for the minutes inside. It is signed Germinal below 12. The thermally blued Breguet style hands indicate the hours and minutes.
There are black enamel rectangles on the lugs with the top of the case consisting of a brand of Blue enamel with three flowers with two having green squares replacing one of the petals. They are beautiful shades of yellow, orange and blue. Either side of the dial are further black enamel rectangles with orange and green bands, alternating either side. The floral pattern is reflected at the bottom with the symmetry of colours diagonally positioned. The quality of the enamel work is exceptional with texture within the colour of the petals and variations in the tone mimicking the intricate nature of leaves. There is further detail to the sides with the engraved scrolls. To the rear is the Swiss hallmarking with head of Helvetia and 18k stamp, with the reference 3090 below and the serial number.
Inside the watch is powered by a 15 jewel movement, which is stamped Germinal. It is also marked as being adjusted to three positions. It is a good quality ladies’ movement for the era. It has been recently serviced and is running reliably.
The watch is presented on a period Milanese style band, with alternating rose gold and white gold banding. It is formed of Rolled gold, a thicker form of plating. It is adjustable to fit any wrist snuggly with its slide clasp mechanism.
It’s no secret that we adore Art Deco enamel work on wrist watches. This example is particularly complex and well executed with the fineness of the work and the texture of colours. It is also in exceptional condition for the age with no obvious marking.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition. The silver tone has aged evenly. The signing is good and clear with the hour markers, brand name and minute track.
Hands:
The hands are of Breguet style and are original. They are in good condition with the thermally blued tone being bright.
Glass:
The crystal has a bevelled edge and appears original. It is in good condition with no major marking.
Crown:
The gold tone crown appears original, but the plate has worn with age.
Case:
The case is 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age with engraved design to the sides. The tone of the yellow gold is good and even. The enamel design is excellent and un-damaged. There are only light scratches to the case.
Caseback:
The snap-on case back is formed of 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age. It has a polished finish with light surface scratching. It has Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold with the head of Helvetia.
Strap:
The watch is presented on a period Milanese style band. It is formed of Rolled gold. It is adjustable to fit any wrist snuggly with its slide clasp mechanism. It is in good condition for the age. It has some wear to the plate on the clasp.
Movement:
The movement is a Germinal 15 jewel manual wind calibre. It is marked as adjusted to three positions. It has been recently serviced. It’s keeping time to within +90 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 275 degrees and a beat error of 2.5m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 14.25mm
Case width with crown: 16mm
Case length: 21mm
Case length lug to lug: 28mm
Case Depth: 7.25mm
Lug width: 11mm
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£800.00Price
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