Here we have a 1935 Jaeger-LeCoultre Duoplan rear wind watch. The case is of tank form and is full Stainless Steel. It has an aged white dial with exaggerated black hour markers with the Jaeger name at 12 and the Duoplan dual level signing below. It has a raised design with cut out centre, providing depth and texture to the dial. It has the thermally blued hour and minute hand indicating the time. The case is a sleek Gents design with brushed finishing to the dial surround. To the rear the case back has the serial number and the rear wind crown. Inside is the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 409 which has been recently serviced.
The Duoplan:
Introduced in 1925 the Duoplan was one of the pre-eminent icons manufactured by LeCoultre during the Art Deco period. The Reverso was created some 6 years after this momentous design.
It was called the Duoplan in reference to the structure of its movement. The fashion at that time was for extremely small wristwatches. Yet, extreme miniaturisation often results in a loss of reliability. The Duoplan provided a simple and ingenious way to reconcile technical excellence and elegance, with its movement being built on two levels. The lower level with the barrel and most of the gear train and on the upper level, the escapement. This enabled it to maintain a large-size balance and thus, more accurate timekeeping. The movements also had a higher beat rate for the era at 21,600 BPH, compared to the standard 18,000 BPH.
The design of the cases also meant that they were labelled as waterproof. By using lead discs and cork in the winding system, the main point of entry, the crown, was protected.
The Duoplan was also famous due to its early use of sapphire crystal which was labelled as un-breakable. The use of Stainless steel was still uncommon in this period and was another element of the design to be triumphed.
The calibre 409 we see in this example was the largest of 4 duoplan movement manufactured. It was produced from 1929-62 and had a total production volume of 9,461.
This example:
The dial is a good original example which is an evenly aged white dial. It is signed with the Jaeger logo above 12 with the Duoplan signing below which resembles the two planed movement construction. The hour markers are of exaggerated arrowhead design with the Arabic 12. The markers are subtly contained within the marked 4 corners. There is a raised section for the hour markers and signing, with the sunken central plus. This adds an intriguing depth and texture to the dial. The hour and minute hand indicate the time and have the thermally blued finish.
The Stainless-Steel case measures 18mm wide, by 27.75mm long without lugs. With the lugs, the length stretches to 39mm. Due to the movement design, the watch is very slim, with a depth of 6.5mm not including the winder. Despite its small dial size, it was a slim Gents design for the era.
It is a sleek design with the rectangular frame for the dial having a thin notched bezel holding the sapphire crystal. There is a brushed finish to the top and bottom panel either end of the dial, with a thin section either side. This gives way to the band running parallel from lug to lug either side. It has a light brushed finish to the central band, with polished taper on the lugs. This is flanked by the smooth outer edges which add further width and a subtle fall to meet the case back. The side profile of the case demonstrates the complexity of the overall design, angles and finishing required to create such a harmonious case.
The rear of the case is a rectangular section which is held in place with pins to the top and bottom. The crown sits on the bottom left, with the directional arrow to remind you of its reverse operation.
The movement has an inner cover to further protect it. One removed it exposes the calibre 409 manual wind movement. A beautiful and aesthetically pleasing movement which has a construction unlike any others you will see.
This is a good original example of a Gents size Duoplan from 1935. An innovative and stylish pure Art Deco design. We anticipate the demand and interest in such pieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre to continue to grow.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition for the age. It is an aged white tone, with even darkening across it. The signing is good and clear with little wear. There is a slight drag mark from the hands between 2 and 6 O’clock.
Hands:
The hands are original with the thermally blued finish. It has darkened but still shines in the light. They have some light marking associated with ageing.
Glass:
The glass is original and is in very good condition. There are no marks to the bevelled edges.
Case:
The case is Stainless Steel and in good condition with no dents or deep scratching, only light surface scratches and natural polishing with age. The brushed finish remains on the upper and lower section of the bezel and slightly less defined to either side of the dial.
Caseback:
The Stainless-Steel case back is in good condition for the age. It has light scratching, with a couple of areas of spotted corrosion. The serial number is good and defined. There is a light service etching next to the crown. The bottom pin collars have some wear to the edges but are secure.
Crown:
The crown is original and is in good condition with light surface scratching. The winding arrow is clear and defined and the coin edge finish is good. The screw is original.
Strap:
The watch is on a 12mm mid-century Bulova tan leather strap which is in new old stock condition.
Movement:
A Recently serviced Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 409 movement, with 15 jewels, adjusted to temp and two positions. Keeping time to within -60 seconds a day.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 18mm
Case length: 27.75mm
Case length lug to lug: 39mm
Case Depth: 6.5mm
Lug width: 12mm