Here we have a beautiful and stylish 1950s Benrus 14k white gold and diamond cocktail watch. The rectangular case has a bezel set with diamonds, with the polished tone to the rhodium plated case. The lugs are triangular with a free form design of 4 diamonds to each lug. It flows into the bracelet which creates an integrated design. The bracelet is set with diamonds all the way along. The fold over clasp holds it in place. The dial is a silver tone, with the raised silver markers. The arrow hands indicate the time. The case is signed 14k gold with the Benrus name inside. The movement is a manual wind Benrus calibre P401, which is shockproof and shaped to the case.
In total the watch weighs 16.85g without the movement. It is an impressive design which catches the light with the sheer number of diamonds covering it. It has 16 eight cut diamonds on each side of the bracelet, with a further 4 on the clasp. Surrounding the bezel there are 20 eight cut diamonds, with four brilliant cut diamonds on each of the lugs. In total there are 64 diamonds, 56 eight cut, and 8 eight cut.
The dial is simple yet elegant with the silver tone and the sunburst finish. The raised dot hour markers are a dark silver tone, with the larger dash markers at 12 and 6 O’clock. It is signed below 12 O’clock with the Benrus name. The hands are small and simple, with the arrow design in a silver tone.
The case measures 10.5mm wide without the crown, with a length of 23mm. The lugs add significant presence, with the total length being 37.5mm. This feeds neatly into the diamond bracelet, which has an integrated design.
It is rectangular with the cut corners. The rectangular bezel is set with 20 eight cut diamonds which frame the dial nicely. The cut corners lead into the triangular lug design which curves downwards. It has three downward curving brilliant cut diamonds, with the single diamond to the side surrounded in a white gold loop. The design matches to each end. The bracelet is attached to each end, which flows into a chain of 16 eight cut diamonds to either side. The clasp folds over to secure the watch on the wrist, with a chain with lobster clip providing further security. The sides of the case have the rhodium plated finish which shine in the light. On the right-hand side, the crown is original with the Benrus name. The snap-on case back has the brushed finish, with the Benrus name and the 14k gold signing.
Inside it is signed ‘Benrus’, ‘Cased and timed by the Benrus watch co’.
The movement is a Benrus calibre P401, which is an FHF 59-21 base calibre. It is a manual wind movement with a jewel count of 17. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 BPH with a 43-hour power reserve. It benefits from Incabloc shock proofing. It’s keeping time to within +50 seconds a day.
Benrus history:
Benrus was founded in New York by Benjamin Lazrus and his two brothers. It took its name from the first syllable of his name and the last syllable of the family name. With combined savings of $5,000 they began to import Swiss watch movements, casing them in New York. They set up HQ at the iconic Hippodrome building in the jewellery district in the heart of the city.
Benrus were a brand who knew how to market watches, making use of promotion with big names, such as Charles Lindbergh. They also had aviation connections right from the early days of commercial air travel, with the Airman watch which was released in 1929. This was dubbed the official watch of National Air Transport, which later became United Airlines. They followed this up with the creation of watches such as the Sky Chief which was created solely for pilot useage. It proved so popular with airlines, the brand used the slogan “Official Watch of Famous airlines”.
They also created the Sportman watch line, which was worn and promoted by one of the greatest baseball players, Babe Ruth.
Benrus provided military issue watches for the U.S. for Vietnam, whilst also designing deep diving and super compressor watches.
The Democratic National Convention also gifted President John F Kennedy a custom made Benrus watch, whilst in 1968 Steve McQueen wore his own Benrus in the iconic movie ‘Bullitt’.
A highly esteemed company, with a rich history, but one of the many brands who fell to the sword of the Quartz crisis. They exist today under new ownership offering Reissues of their iconic watches.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in decent condition for the age. It is a silver tone, with the sunburst finish. It has silver raised hour markers. There are some light marks and scratches associated with age.
Hands:
The hands are original and are in good patinated condition. The hour and minute hands are thermally blued with the original radium luminous in-fill. The central second hand is the correct gold tone with the lollipop counterbalance. They are good and free of bending.
Glass:
The crystal is original and is in good condition with some light marking.
Crown:
The crown is original, with the Benrus name. It has some marking to the face associated with wear to the plate.
Case:
The case is 14ct white gold and is in good condition with the rhodium plated finish. It has a good even shine, with only some light marking.
Caseback:
The case back is formed of 14ct white gold and is in good condition with the original brushed finish. The Benrus engraving is clear. There is light surface scratching associated with age.
Bracelet:
The bracelet is attached to the watch head and if formed of 14ct white gold. Both sides have 16 eight cut diamonds set in the white gold mounts. It has the fold over clasp, with four smaller eight cut diamonds on it. It also has a lobster clip chain to secure it further. It is in good vintage condition with light marking.
Movement:
The movement is a Benrus calibre P401 which is an FHF 59-21 base calibre. It is a manual wind movement with a jewel count of 17. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 BPH with a 43-hour power reserve. It benefits from Incabloc shock proofing.
The service history is unknown, but it is in good condition. It’s keeping time to within +50 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 240 degrees and a beat error of 0.5m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 10.5mm
Case width with crown: 11.5mm
Case length: 23mm
Case length lug to lug: 37.5mm
Case Depth: 7.7mm