For sale we have a rare and intriguing 1959 Rolex Officially Certified Chronometer square 18ct gold dress watch. It has a highly unusual, scored brick effect bezel, with matching brick effect textured dial. It is the reference 9548 which is a rare reference, with an intriguing mix of designs across the handful of examples seen. This is the only example we have seen of a reference 9548 which has been awarded chronometer standard. It is highly unusual for a dress watch to be chronometer grade due to the lack of precision timekeeping associated with a sub-second watch. There is a lag time of ten years between the watch’s original conception and that of other examples, and the chronometer testing in 1959. It was not unusual for watches to be kept in stock or remain unsold for long periods of time. As such it seems Rolex decided to make this example a Chronometer at a later date.
It comes complete with its inner/outer box, with the original chronometer papers.
As if the watch design wasn’t impressive on its own, the watch recorded ‘especially good results’ in its chronometer testing. It is still keeping excellent time, to within +/- 2 seconds a day after its recent service.
The 9548:
A select few special reference 9548s have sold in the world’s finest auctions. In 2016 at Phillips Geneve Watch Auction, Lot 158, a reference 9548 with cloisonne enamel dial with imaginary coat of arms, featured at an estimate of 150,000 – 300,000 Swiss Francs.
In May of 2023 another special 9548 with cloisonne enamel dial with the same coat of arms featured in Antiquorums Geneva auction for a hammer of 187,500 Swiss Francs.
Phillips also stated that the case of the 9548 is a rarely seen design for Rolex in this period.
This example:
The dial of this watch is eye-catching and potentially unique. Other 9548s have plain dial finishes, with this being the only example we have seen with the brick effect dial. It is an aged silver tone, with scored lines providing a fascinating texture with the brick effect.
It has arrow hour markers with hobnail square markers at 9 and 3 balancing with the Rolex cornet logo at 12 O’clock. They have developed an oxidised patination which has turned them a rose gold tone with purple accents. The dial is proudly signed Rolex, with the Officially Certified Chronometer signing. At 6 o’clock is the inset sub-second dial with textured concentric circles.
The original hands are of facetted dauphine style, which is a very stylish hand design, which reflects the light due to the bevel to the centre. The sub-second hand is also original.
The 18ct yellow gold case measures 26mm x 26mm, with a depth of 7.5mm. This gives the watch a neat presence on the wrist, whilst the design speaks for itself. The square design provides the perfect canvas for the scored, brick effect design to the bezel. This holds the original glass tightly, with the glass sitting just above the profile of the case having a flat finish. To the right is the original un-signed crown, with a neat coin edge finish.
The sides of the case are flat, with a polished finish, whilst the short thin lugs are tapered to allow the strap a snug fit to the wrist, whilst maintaining the profile of the overall design.
To the rear is the snap on back which is designed with a subtly curved barrel shaped face to meet the wrist, with bevelled edges meeting the flat sides of the case, creating a smooth transition. There is a clear tab to the top of the case, which allows for easy opening. The Rolex cornet logo is still good and clear, along with the serial number, showing signs of only natural polish against the wrist.
Inside the case is signed ‘Montres Rolex SA’, with Swiss hallmarking for 18k gold, with the head of Helvetia. It has the poincon de maitre for the case maker Genex SA. There is also the clear reference number 9548.
The movement is a Rolex calibre 1200 which is chronometer grade. It is a beautiful 17 jewel manual wind movement. It has a frequency of 18,000 BPH and has the benefit of shock protection. The serial corresponds with the Chronometer certification.
The movement has been recently serviced and is in excellent condition. It’s keeping time to within +/- 2 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.6m/s.
A rarely seen and standout dress reference, from a legendary watch brand, with the added rarity of the dial texture, the individual chronometer certification, and inner and outer box with chronometer papers. A very lucky find indeed and a great addition to any collection.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is highly unusual with its brick finish. It is in original condition, with ageing to the silver tone and darkening around the edge of the dial. The signing is good and clear. The applied hour markers are in good condition with oxidisation associated with age.
Hands:
The hands are original of facetted Dauphine design, in a rose gold tone. They are in aged condition with no bending, but oxidisation with age.
Glass:
The glass is original and is in good overall condition. It has a small chip to the bottom left corner which is barely noticeable.
Crown:
The gold crown is original and is in good condition with some light marking.
Case:
The case is formed of 18ct gold and is in original condition. It has a scored, brick design bezel. It remains unpolished. It has light surface scratching and some dints to the sides. It has oxidisation of the gold tone, which has naturally developed with age.
Caseback:
The case back is 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age. It has some light surface scratches associated with age. It maintains the original Rolex cornet engraving and the serial number is good and clear. It is unpolished.
Strap:
The watch is on a new genuine leather strap. It is non-Rolex and the buckle in non-branded.
Movement:
The movement is a Rolex calibre 1200 which is chronometer grade. It is a beautiful 17 jewel manual wind movement. It has a frequency of 18,000 BPH and has the benefit of shock protection.
The movement has been recently serviced and is in excellent condition. It’s keeping time to within +/- 2 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.6m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 25.75mm
Case width with crown: 27mm
Case length: 26.25mm
Case length lug to lug: 33.75mm
Case Depth: 7.4mm
Lug width: 18m