Here we have a lovely example of a 1974 18ct Gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, reference 1503. It has an outstanding and unusual silver sunburst sigma dial, with gold hour markers and handset. It is presented on its original, matching London assay office marked 19mm 18ct gold Rivet bracelet. Inside the case is signed with hallmarking from London assay office dating to 1974. It has the Poincon De Maitre for Genex SA. The automatic chronometer grade calibre 1570 powers the watch. It is accurate to within 3 seconds a day after its recent service.
The dial is unusual as it is a Silver Sigma dial. On this reference a champagne or gold tone dial is most common, with any silver variations tending not to be a Sigma dial. It is a beautiful combination of the brushed silver sunburst finish with the luxurious applied gold hour markers. Under a loupe you can see the level of detail of the markers. They have textured outer sections either side, with a polished groove to the centre. To the base are the original Tritium luminous plots, which have aged to a dark orange tone. The Rolex Cornet is proudly applied at 12 O’clock, with the black ‘Rolex’ ‘Oyster Perpetual Date’ signing below.
Below 6 O’clock is the ‘T Swiss T’ signing with the Sigma symbols bookending it. Above 6 O’clock is the Chronometer signing. To 3 O’clock is the facetted date window surround, with the white date wheel with black Arabic numerals.
The gold hour and minutes hand are of luminous stick style, with the original aged luminous paint intact. They have a bevel to the centre which makes them interact with the light. The central second hand has an elegant taper which catches the eye.
The case is formed of 18ct yellow gold and measured 34.75mm wide. Despite this being smaller than models such as the Datejust in the period, the design of the Oyster patent case has significant presence. The lug-to-lug measurement is 41.5mm, whilst the width with the screw down crown is 37.5mm. The crown is also gold and is original. It does have some dints in the coin edged finish.
It has the brushed finish to the top of the lugs, with a bright fluted bezel surrounding the dial. To the sides it has a curved, polished finish which leads into the brushed undersides of the lugs. The screw back has a good coin edge finish, with the polished surround and face having polished with wear against the wrist. The hallmarking to the back of the case is good and clear. Inside, the case back is signed with the reference 1503. It has Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold, with the Poincon De Maitre 12 for Genex SA. It also has British import marks from London assay office dating to 1974. There are two Rolex service etchings inside.
The movement is a Rolex calibre 1570, which is automatic with a jewel count of 26 and is chronometer grade. It has a frequency of 19,800 BPH and benefits from hacking function. It also has a non-quickset date. The movement has been recently serviced and is in very good condition. It’s keeping time to within -3 seconds a day.
The watch comes on its original 18ct gold 19mm rivet bracelet, which was used on this model as well as the Daytona during the period. It has 57 endlinks and is long, meaning it will fit any wrist size. It has been polished in the past and the cornet on the clasp has lost definition. It has a dimpled dent to the link closest to the clasp. It is good in terms of bracelet sag. It has hallmarking for London assay office dating to 1974.
The bracelet can be sold separately if it is of interest on its own.
The watch can be laser welded and refurbished, including full bracelet works, if the buyer wishes - at a small cost. We have a decided to leave the watch as is, for this to be the decision of its next owner.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The silver tone dial has a satin sunburst finish. It is in very good original condition. It is a Sigma dial, with gold hour markers and applied Rolex logo. The signing is good and clear and the dial finish is bright. There are no clear signs of age.
Hands:
The hands are original of stick design, formed of gold. They are in very good condition with the original lume in-fill and no obvious marking.
Glass:
The acrylic crystal is a replacement which is in perfect condition.
Crown:
The gold Rolex crown is original and in decent condition, functioning as it should, screwing down well. The Rolex Oyster engraving has some wear and it has some nicks to the coin edge finish.
Case:
The case is formed of 18ct gold and is in good condition with light surface scratching. The brushed finish on the top is fainter with age, with polished finish to the sides having light scratching. The lugs are well shaped with little signs of wear to the drilled lugs. The fluted bezel is reasonably sharp.
Caseback:
The case back is 18ct gold and is in good condition for the age. It has some light surface scratches associated with age. The coin edge is very good and sharp with no signs of poor opening attempts.
Bracelet:
The watch comes on its original 18ct gold 19mm rivet bracelet. It has 57 endlinks and is long, meaning it will fit any wrist size. It has been polished in the past and with wear on the wrist. It is good in terms of bracelet sag. It has some denting.
Movement:
The movement is a Rolex calibre 1570. It is an automatic movement, with a jewel count of 26. It has a frequency of 19,800 BPH and has hacking. It has a non-quickset date and is chronometer grade.
The movement has been recently serviced and is in very good condition. It’s keeping time to within -3 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 270 degrees and a beat error of 0.1m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 34.75mm
Case width with crown: 37.5mm
Case length: 33.5mm
Case length lug to lug: 41.5mm
Case Depth: 11mm
Lug width: 19mm