Here we have an eye-catching mid 1970s Roy King tank watch. It has a 925 Sterling Silver case with the matching silver bracelet. It showcases the best of his design, with the unique ribbed pattern, spreading along the bracelet, which has the belt buckle style fastening. It has the clean and classic white dial with the Roman numeral hour markers and the Roy King signing. The hands are of plume style with the black painted finish to match the hour markers. To the right is the coin edge crown set with the sapphire cabochon crown. The roman numerals, combined with the Sapphire cabochon draw clear parallels with Cartier’s styling. To the rear the hallmarking is bold and clear, an eye-catching feature. The movement is a 17 jewel FHF manual wind calibre, which is shock-protected and keeping reliable time.
Dress pieces from the 70s and 80s are currently very popular with collectors and it is easy to see why. Examples such as this highlight the quality and craftsmanship associated with the pieces, with the mastery of precious metal cases. The way in which the bracelets integrate into the design of the case, create a luxurious harmony of timekeeping and jewellery.
The dial is a clean and classic design, very much in the Cartier vein of styling. It is rectangular with the gloss white base tone. It has the exaggerated roman numerals in a black tone, with the rectangular railroad track for the minutes. It has the stylised ‘Roy King’ logo below 12 O’clock with the ‘Swiss’ signing to the case. The hands are simple and elegant, of Plume style in a black painted tone to match the numerals.
The case measures 24mm wide, 26.25mm with crown. It has a length of 31.25mm. This makes it a compact unisex wear, equally at home on a gents or ladies wrist. It has a slim depth of 7.5mm which makes it a comfortable wear on the wrist. The lug width of just under 18mm gives the watch further presence, with the continued integrated design.
It is a classic rectangular tank shaped case with the hooded lug design. It has a ribbed design on the front and sides of the case, a fascinating use of texture not commonly seen. To the right is the coin edge crown with the Sapphire cabochon inset, a further nod to Cartier styling of the period.
The rear has the classic bold hallmarking which was a key feature of Roy Kings design in the period. It has the original lightly brushed finish which is well defined.
The bracelet design follows that of the case with the ribbed form. It is marked with the silver hallmarking on each side, with the full hallmarking on the flexible belt style clasp. The clasp is shaped like a belt buckle, with the belt section feeding through and the tang snapping the pieces together firmly. It has a good size to it, fitting between a 6 and 7.75” wrist circumference.
Inside is the FHF calibre 69 manual wind movement. It has a jewel count of 17 and a semi hi-beat rate of 21,600 BPH. It is shock protected and is a good quality, reliable movement. It is keeping reliable time to within +60 seconds a day.
Roy King
Roy Cecil King was a leading British watch designer and jeweller with a wide range of high-end customers. His items were worn by Saudi princes and famous musicians such as the Beatles and Tom Jones.
He began his jewellery career at 14 years old, as an apprentice goldsmith and diamond mounter in London’s Hatton Garden jewellery district.
After the war, King set up his own workshop in Watford. In 1952 he produced five strawberry leaf tiaras for duchesses to wear at the Coronation. In the early 1950s, King began exporting his pieces to offset the effects of the huge 100 per cent tax on luxury goods in Britain.
He soon began to concentrate on watch manufacture, or, as he described it, “jewellery that tells the time”.
When restrictions on the import of Swiss watch movements were lifted in 1960, King decided to integrate these into his own designs. He realised that whoever the manufacturer might be people still wanted the Swiss Made signing. King signed an exclusive agency agreement with Bueche-Girod, which enabled him to focus on design.
In 1961, the Roy King workshop excelled at the British Modern Jewellery Exhibition, winning two first prizes, as well as one second and one third prize. The winning pieces are now in the permanent collection of Goldsmiths’ Hall.
During the 1960s, the workshop produced many designs using a variety of unconventional methods with acclaim for his “bark finish” design. One such bark finished example was in the form of a wedding band worn by Patti Boyd when she married George Harrison.
In 1965, King built his own factory near Watford, where he employed 65 staff who made 25,000 gold and silver pieces a year.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below. A further condition report is below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is good condition. The bright white tone is even, with the numerals and signing clear and unworn. There are some small marks associated with age and wear.
Hands:
The hands are original, of Plume style. They have been painted to give them a black tone, matching the numerals. There are some light marks associated with age.
Glass:
The acrylic crystal is original and is in good condition, with only some light marks.
Crown:
The crown is original and is in decent condition. It has slight wear to the plated finish. The sapphire cabochon is in good condition.
Case:
The case is formed of silver and is in good original condition. It has some light marks and nicks associated with age, but no unsightly damage. There is light tarnishing associated with age.
Caseback:
The solid case back is in good original condition with the brushed finish. The signing and hallmarking is good and well defined. There are some light marks expected with age.
Strap:
The comes on its original silver bracelet. It is decent condition for the age, with the hallmarking remaining clear. It has tarnishing associated with age and wear. The buckle has some marking associated with age and some deeper marks on the silver tang (likely due to forcing it open). It will fit up to an 7.75” wrist circumference.
Movement:
The movement is an FHF calibre 13-69. It is a manual wind movement, with a jewel count of 17. It has a frequency of 21,600 BPH. It has Incabloc shock protection.
The movement service history is unknown, but it is in good running condition. It’s keeping time to within +60 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 250 degrees and a beat error of 3.7m/s.
Case dimensions:
Case width: 24mm
Case width with crown: 26.25mm
Case length: 31.25mm
Case Depth: 7.5mm
Lug width: 17.5mm
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£1,000.00Price
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