Here we have a luxurious example of gold 1980s design by Bueche Girod, partnering with Roy King. Dating to 1985 this is a classic rectangular piece with the integrated gold weave bracelet. The case and bracelet are formed of 9ct gold, weighing approximately 50g without the movement and dial. The dial is a champagne tone with the brushed sunburst finish and black roman numerals. Simple, yet elegant.
The bracelet features goldsmithing of exceptional quality with the rope effect weave, intertwined with polished bands. A complex piece of work which makes for an eye-catching piece of design, that shimers the light as you roll your wrist. The case and bracelet manufactured by Roy King, with the ‘RCK’ makers mark and hallmarking by London assay office.
Inside is the reliable ETA 956.032 Quartz movement, which has been recently replaced and functions perfectly, keeping accurate time.
The dial is restrained, yet elegant. It is a champagne tone with the brushed sunburst finish radiating from the centre. The black painted roman numerals are exaggerated as they stretch to meet the corners of the case. The railroad minute track follows the flow of the case in the rectangular form. It is signed ‘Bueche-Girod’ below 12 O’clock and ‘Swiss’ below 6.
The 9ct gold case is well proportioned, measuring 26mm x 29mm to the main head. The bracelet is impactful with a width of 23mm which gently tapers down to the clasp. With a 6mm depth to the case, this is comfortable wear with its low profile on the wrist. The bracelet is free of any damage and is well sized, fitting any wrist from 7” in circumference to 8.5”. It if formed of 9ct gold, with hallmarking and the Roy King maker’s mark.
The bezel consists of the 4 bevelled faces, leading into the flat case sides. To the right is the neat coin edge crown. The rear of the case is held in place with four screws and is signed as ‘Water Resistant’. It has the linear brushed finish.
The inside of the case back has perlage finishing and has British hallmarking for 9ct gold from London assay office, with the date letter ‘L’ dating the watch to 1985. It has the ‘RCK’ makers mark which is for Roy Cecil King.
Roy King was a renown jeweller, goldsmith and watch designer. Post WW2 he began to design and make watches under his own name, setting up a workshop in Watford. Jewellery was his main product at first, but from the 1950s he began to focus on watches, which he described as “jewellery that tells the time”. He had an exclusive contract with Bueche-Girod to provide movements for his watches since the 1960s. In terms of design and technique, he was famed for his use of “bark finish”. The business expanded throughout the 1960s and he built his own factory near Watford, employing 65 staff, making 25,000 gold and silver pieces per year. He purchased the Swiss Watch compant, La Montre Royale de Geneve in 1973, creating ever more luxurious watches, which were particularly popular in the middle east.
Roy opened a show room in Mayfair in 1980 and continued to make one-off pieces for clients.
Inside is the ETA 956.032 Quartz calibre. Introduced in 1972, it has a quartz-controlled stepper motor. It has a long battery life due to the hours and minutes only display. The movement is a recent replacement, with the original Bueche Girod signed ETA 956.032 no longer working. It is a new movement which is functioning perfectly.
Bueche Girod:
Bueche Girod was founded in 1947 by master watchmaker Vital Bueche and his wife Girod. They gained a reputation for high quality dress pieces, formed of precious metals with stone dials, gemstones and complex bracelet designs. They were known to use high grade movements and thin calibres to complement their dress design pieces. Production ceased in the 2000s, with the brands beautifully crafted watches becoming very collectable.
Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
Dial:
The dial is original and is in good condition with the champagne tone brushed sunburst finish. The painted numerals are good and clear, as is the signing. There are no obvious marks.
Hands:
The hands are original and in good condition. They are gold and shine brightly in the light, with the polished finish. Some light marking.
Glass:
The acrylic crystal is original and is in good condition with some light marking.
Crown:
The crown appears to be a well matched replacement, which is in good condition.
Case:
The case is formed of 9ct gold. It is a two-piece case with the rear screwing in place against the front. The front holds the movement block with screws to the sides. The finish to the case is good and original. It has some light marking and one dint on the right hand side, above the crown.
Caseback:
The 9ct gold solid back is in good condition. It has the brushed finish and clear signing. It has light surface scratching associated with age.
Bracelet:
The integrated 9ct gold bracelet is in good original condition. The fold over clasp and bar are original and untouched. It will fit a large wrist size of up to 8.5”. It is a loose fit on a 7” wrist diameter.
Movement:
The movement is an ETA 956.032 Quartz calibre. Introduced in 1972, it has a quartz controlled stepper motor. It has a long battery life due to the hours and minutes only display. It has a jewel count of 7.
The movement is a recent replacement, with the original Bueche Girod signed ETA 956.032 no longer working. It is a new movement which is functioning perfectly.
Case Dimensions:
Case width: 26.2mm
Case width with crown: 27.8mm
Case length: 29.2mm
Case Depth: 6mm
Bracelet width: 23mm
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£2,100.00Price
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