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For sale we have an outstanding piece of horological design, a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. From the 1990s, this is the reference 3848/22 which has a 18ct yellow gold case, with excellent screw link 18ct yellow gold beads of rice bracelet. It has the classic blue sunburst dial with Sigma signing, indicating the gold construction with gold hands, and applied hour markers. Inside it has the ultra-thin, hi-beat calibre 215 movement which is keeping time to well within chronometer standards. It has a long bracelet, with enough links to fit any wrist size. It is watch only, with no box or paperwork.

 

The Ellipse:

1968 saw the break away from the square, circular and oval case. Blending them all, Patek Philippe introduced a new form in the Golden Ellipse.

 

The inspiration and ‘Golden’ name stems back two thousand years when Euclid discovered a principle of aesthetic proportion, known as the Golden Section. An enduring principle. Renaissance mathematician Luca Pacioli renamed it ‘De Divina Proportione’ the ratio 1 to 1.6181 that dictates the perfect point at which to divide a line into two harmonious, but unequal lengths. Using this enduring principle, Patek Philippe blended harmony and elegance to create the Golden Ellipse.

 

The Ellipse embodies a modern, yet timeless canvas for creativity and artisans touches to flourish. Thierry Stern said when celebrating the Ellipse’s 50th anniversary in 2018, “It’s one of those watches that shows you how to make a Patek Philippe. No gimmicks, just purity and beauty expressed through simple design”.

 

A model born into the chaos of the late 1960s watch industry; the Ellipse rose to become an instant icon. With the Quartz revolution just around the corner, Patek Philippe needed a design that would be instantly recognisable, with unisex appeal. Forward thinking, yet classic, the Ellipse also differentiated itself with a level of luxury beyond all other makers.

 

The Ellipse also saw a move away from external case makers design proposals, to Patek creating the design in-house, selecting case maker Ateliers Reunis to produce it to their exacting standards.

 

The cobalt blue dial was revolutionary, being 18ct blue gold. Legendary dial maker Singer developed a system of vacuum plating, in which cobalt and 24k gold were vaporized and allowed to condense on and 18k gold dial.

With over 65 different versions just by the end of the 1970s, the range is incredibly diverse.

 

This example:

 

From the 1990s catalogue, it was one of 6 full 18ct references on offer. It is a classic combination of 18ct yellow gold, with the cobalt blue gold sunburst dial. It is a sigma dial variation, with applied gold hour markers and gold hands.

 

We see this as one of the best bracelets available on the Ellipse. It is an exceptional design, with beads of rice styling and it has the benefit of adjustable screw links.

 

With the April 2024 announcement of a new golden Ellipse with integrated bracelet, the popular of integrated models will only increase.

 

There is no paperwork to signify a service, but we are reliability informed the watch was serviced by Patek in 2018. Having been checked by our watchmakers, we are proud to say it is in excellent condition. We will provide a one-year warranty.

 

Full condition report below. Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.

 

Dial:

The dial is in excellent original condition. The brushed sunburst finish is excellent with no marking. The applied gold hour markers are without blemishing with the crisp white signing

 

Hands:

The hands are original. They are of bevelled stick style and are formed of 18ct gold. They are in good condition with some light marking.

 

Glass:

The sapphire crystal is original and is in very good condition with no marking.

 

Crown:

The crown is original and is in good condition with a sharp coin edge finish. It is adorned with the Calatrava cross.

 

Case:

The case is formed of 18ct gold. It has a polished bezel which blends into the sides of the case. It has some dints and light scratching associated with age and wear. The polished bezel creates a lip before moving into a brushed lower section. The rear of the case is polished and has been polished in the watch’s life. This combined with wear against the wrist, has rubbed to two case markings of the left-hand side.

 

Caseback:

The 18ct gold snap on back is in good condition. It has had the brushed finish re-instated. It has light surface scratching associated with wear.

 

Bracelet:

The integrated 18ct gold bracelet is in good original condition. It has a polished finish with brushed sides. The clasp is good and secures tightly. The Patek Calatrava Cross is clearly defined. It has adjustable screw links. It is a long bracelet, with extra links allowing it to fit up to an 8.5” wrist diameter.

 

Movement:

The movement is a Patek Philippe calibre 215. It is an ultra-thin manually wound movement, with a jewel count of 18. It has a hi-beat frequency of 28,800 BPH. It is signed with the Patek Philippe seal.

 

The movement service history isn’t documented, but I am reliably informed it was serviced by Patek in 2018. It has been checked by our watchmakers and is in excellent condition. It’s keeping time to within +3 seconds deviation a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.5m/s.

 

Case dimensions:

Case width: 27.5mm

Case width with crown: 28.5mm

Case length: 32mm

Case Depth: 5.75mm

Bracelet width: 18mm

1990s Patek Philippe Ellipse 18k Gold Beads of Rice Sigma dial 3848/22 cal 215

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