Here we have a lovely example of a 1997 Zenith El Primero Chronomaster, in an 18ct rose gold case. It is a limited edition which, with just 750 pieces created worldwide. This is a low edition number 22/750. The full reference for the black dial rose gold (in our opinion the best variation) is 60/17.0500.400/21. The case measures 38mm is a joy on the wrist. It has the black dial with the rose gold tone signing and applied Italic Arabic numerals. It has the constant seconds, 30-minute recorder and 12 hour counter. The date is offset at 5 O’clock with the blacked-out window and rose gold tone date numerals. The rose gold hands have the luminous in-fill, matching to the lume plots on the hour markers. To the sides are the rectangular pushers with the signed Zenith crown. To the rear is the exhibition case back which has the hallmarking, zenith signing, model information and limited number. The sapphire crystal back allows the wearer to peer in and experience the quality and complexity of the Zenith Calibre 400 movement. Made up of 278 components, it is a Chronometer grade, 31 jewel Automatic movement, with a high beat rate of 36,000 BPH.
The watch comes on a non-original leather strap, with a gold plated Zenith buckle.
It is lacking the box but comes with all of the accompaniments; COSC Chronometer papers, original price & reference hang tag, signed guarantee card, paper guarantee and original instruction booklet.
Limited to 750 pieces this reference was designed by J. Borges Freitas to celebrate the 500th anniversary of Vasco da Gama's first voyage to India which began in 1497.
The watch sold in Japan originally at 303 Sakaemachi, Tonami City, with the papers dated the 27th of December 1997. The watch was original purchased for a cost of 600,000 Japanese Yen, which was £2920 at the time. Adjusting for inflation, this is £5650 in today’s money which shows that it has been an incredibly consistent model in terms of value.
There is a certain kind of neo-vintage watch from the 1990s which offers exceptional value for money, of which this is one. A complex chronometer grade movement in a heavy 18ct rose gold case, with limited production. From Zenith today a similar watch (The Chronomaster Sport 18ct rose gold) is £21,400.
The dial is dark and luxurious with the matte black base tone and rose gold accents. It has the detailed 1/5ths of a second track around the exterior, with the white Tachymeter scale sitting inside of this. The hour markers are applied in a rose gold tone, in the most wonderful italic stylised Arabic design. There are two arrow markers, either side of 12 O’clock which help to differentiate the top of the dial. To the base of each hour marker are the original luminous plots. The tachymeter scale continues to the centre, used to measure speeds slower than 60 cycles per hour, with the Zenith El Primero and Automatic signing in white. The sub-dials are subtly inset into the dial and consist of the constant seconds, 30 minute and 12 hour counter. The sub-dials intersect with the tachymeter signing which is a vintage inspired layout reminiscent of 1940s chronograph designs. The elegant Rose Gold hands are of sword style, filled with Super-LumiNova. They are paired with a simple, straight chronograph hand and another vintage nod with the leaf style hands on the sub dials.
The case is well proportioned for any wrist size, with a width of 38mm excluding crown. It strikes a good balance, offering a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.5mm which may suit those used to a bigger watch. Despite this, it manages to maintain a depth of 12.5mm whilst offering the complex movement.
The case exhibits a no expenses spared approach with its thick and heavy design. It has the well-proportioned bezel with the stepped finish, holding the original sapphire crystal. The lugs tapered inwards and downwards to meet the wrist and follow the flow of the case. The sides of the case are deep, comprising most of the depth, filled with 18ct rose gold. To the right, the rose gold tone crown has the Zenith signing, with the rectangular rose gold pushers having the rounded corners.
To the rear we have the exhibition back. Around the exterior is a generous rose gold surround of top quality with the deep engraving and hallmarking. It has the gold signing and hallmarking, with the reference and limited number 022/750. The sapphire crystal exhibition back is a real treat which allows the wearer to admire the quality movement.
Inside the automatic Zenith El Primero Calibre 400. It is a Chronometer grade movement, with 31 jewels and a high beat rate of 36,000BPH. It has an incredibly smooth sweep as one would expect. It has the bidirectional rotor with the Zenith El Primero engraving. An incredible movement, which has a total of 278 components. It was serviced prior to its previous owners purchase in October 2024. It’s keeping time to within +/- 4 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.0m/s.
The watch comes on a non-original leather strap, with a gold plated Zenith buckle.
It is lacking the box but comes with all the accompaniments; COSC Chronometer papers, original price & reference hang tag, signed guarantee card, paper guarantee and original instruction booklet.
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.
Dial:
The dial is in very good original condition with no signs of ageing or marking.
Hands:
The hands are in very good original condition with no marking.
Glass:
The Sapphire crystal is original with no marking.
Crown and pushers:
The crown and pushers are both in good original condition with some light surface scratching.
Case:
The case is 18ct gold and is in very good condition. The tone of the rose gold is good and even. There are very light surface scratches.
Caseback:
The case back is in very good condition with clear engraving and hallmarking. The sapphire exhibition has no marking. There is only light surface scratching to the gold surround.
Strap:
The watch is presented on a non original leather strap with a gold plated Zenith buckle.
Movement:
Inside is the Zenith Calibre 400. It displays the hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-minute counter, 12 hour counter and central 60 second hand. It is in good condition, keeping very good time, with the chronograph functioning smoothly. It was serviced prior to its previous owners purchase in October 2024. It’s keeping time to within +/- 4 seconds a day, with an amplitude of 300 degrees and a beat error of 0.0m/s.
Case Dimensions:
Case width: 38mm
Case width with crown: 42.25mm
Case length: 37.5mm
Case length lug to lug: 45.5mm
Case Depth: 12.5mm
Lug width: 19mm
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£5,750.00Price
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