For sale we have an exceptional circa 1949 Universal Geneve with an 18ct pink gold case with an eye-catching hobnail gold tone dial with balanced applied Arabic and arrow markers. It has a unique pyramid lug design and is marked as the case reference 18519. It has the hammer mark 128 for Jung & Fils, a renowned case maker for Universal Geneve during this period. It has the original signed Universal crown to the right-hand side, with the thick glass protecting the dial and facetted Dauphine style hands. Inside the case has the Universal signing and Swiss hallmarking for 18ct gold. The movement is a tonneau shaped, manual wind Universal Geneve calibre 240, which has been recently serviced. 
 
The reference was manufactured in the late 1940s and is thought to be potentially unique. There is no scholarship or marketing material as to when the reference was introduced, or how many were made. One other similar example has appeared on the market in the last couple of years, the Ref 18520 example produced in 1948. It has the same dial, hands and movement, with the difference being a batwing lug design. Clearly this was a limited and expressive range of luxury dress pieces in the post war period. 
The case has the Poincon De Maitre hammer mark 128 for Jung & Fils (sons). They were the leading case manufacturer for Universal Geneve’s high-end cases. They also manufactured cases for Jaeger Chronographs, which had Universal Geneve movements. 
The cases tended to be sports watches, in precious metal, such as the Compax, Tri-Compax and Compur. They also produced more classic dress cases for the Polerouter Deluxe and Disco Volante. The example found here is a deviation from the norm in terms of rectangular shape and adventurous lug design.
 
Mirroring the geometric eccentricities seen in art forms by Picasso and Matisse, watch makers in the mid 20th century were exploring varied case designs. The post war era was marked by a boom in economies across the USA and Europe. A renewed optimism and faith in mankind’s abilities to strive for better, led to expressions in art, architecture and science. Combined with the beginnings of space travel, the future provided endless creativity. 
 
This watch was clearly a contemporary of the lug and case designs of Vachron and Patek from the 1950s to the 1960s. The watch has clean geometry, with carefully considered lines and sharp angles. It very much reflects the case design of Markowski, who created the Patek Philippe Top Hat. He was known to transform tonneau or rectangular shaped cases, into provocative works of art. 
 
The case is formed of 18ct pink gold and measures 26mm x 33mm, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 36mm. The rectangular base shape of the case has a unique lug design of a triangular, hooded form. These are beautifully designed, creating an intriguing side profile and front view. The front almost appears as if the lugs could slide down and cover the dial. To the side of the case is the original crown with Universal Geneve signing, in a pink gold tone. There is a rubbed Swiss hallmarking to the left hand side of the case.
 
The case back is flat with a brushed finish and polished bevelled edges. The serial number 1,425,654 is clear, along with the reference number 18519. The inside of the case back is signed Universal Geneve and has Swiss Hallmarking for 18ct gold with the head of Helvetia mark and the hammer 128.
 
The dial is another impressive aspect of the watches design. It has a pink gold tone dial which has a hobnail finish, reminiscent of that of Boucheron in the 1950-1960s. This is a complex dial which plays with the light beautifully, whilst having a great texture. There are applied gold tone arrow hour markers with Arabic 9,12,3,6 which adds balance to the dial layout. It is signed Universal to the centre, with Swiss to the base. The dial does have signs of ageing, but these are easy to ignore with the quality of the texture and case design. 
 
The hands are sleek and elegant in the facetted dauphine style. They are a rose gold tone which shines in the light. 
 
The dial and hands are shielded behind the complex cut glass. It is thick and has a bevelled edge which are clear signs of quality which add to the profile of the case.
 
The watch is on a 1960s Favre-Leuba Geneve strap, which is a top-quality crocodile leather, which is a perfect fit for the watch. 
 
The movement is a Universal calibre 240. It has a jewel count of 17 and is manual wind. It is a high-grade movement and is a neat Tonneau shape. It has been recently serviced and has a daily gain of +22 seconds a day.
 
Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.
A further condition report is below.
 
Dial: 
The dial is original and has signs of ageing. There is some loss of colour to the overall gold tone of the dial by the crown and below the Swiss signing at the bottom of the dial. There is a light spot on the dial to the left of the universal signing, with another spot above the in-between of 5 and 6 O’clock. 
 
Hands: 
The hands are original. They are of a Facetted Dauphine style in a rose gold tone. They are in good condition with some light scratching. 
 
Glass: 
The complex cut glass is original. It has a couple of scratches to the centre but these only notice in some lights.
 
Crown: 
The crown is original and has the Universal Geneve signing. It is in very good original condition. It is a rose gold tone with a neat coin edge finish.
 
Case:
The unusual case is formed of 18ct gold and is in very good original condition. It has light surface scratching. It has signs of natural polishing with wear.
 
Caseback:
The case back is formed of 18ct gold and is in good original condition. It has a brushed finish which has light surface scratching. The serial number and reference number are clear.
 
Strap: 
The watch is on a 1960s Favre-Leuba Geneve strap, which is a top-quality crocodile leather. It is a perfect fit for the watch. It will fit up to an 8” wrist. It has a gold plated Universal Geneve buckle.
 
Movement: 
The movement is a Universal calibre 240. It has a jewel count of 17 and is manual wind. It is a high-grade movement and is a neat Tonneau shape.
 
The watch has been recently serviced by us. It has a daily gain of +22 seconds, with an amplitude of 275 degrees and a beat error of 0.4 m/s.
 
Case dimensions: 
Case width: 26mm
Case width with crown: 23.5mm 
Case length: 33mm 
Case length lug to lug: 36mm
Case Depth: 7.5mm
Lug depth: 8.25mm
Lug width: 16mm