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Here we have an unusual and uncommon prototype produced by SMH / Kiplé for LIP in 1989. Based on the design of the Mach 2000 Chronograph, it uses the D shaped asymmetrical case with the coloured dummy pushers and crown to the middle. It has the chrome finish to the aluminium alloy case, which is particularly uncommon. The dial is the matte black tone with the Tachymetre scale chapter ring around the exterior. It has the dash hour markers with the thicker white hour markers. It has the Day sub track in French at 9 O’clock, with the date sub track at 3 with the fluorescent green tone. It has the moonphase window above 6 O’clock with the classic dark blue with gold moon and stars. The snap-on case back has the original film cover which has degraded with age. Inside is the West German PUW calibre 255-259N Quartz movement with the moonphase, day and date function. It comes on its original LIP signed rubber strap.

 

Being a prototype, it was never commercially sold. Around 10-15 examples have come up on the market over the years.

 

LIP and Roger Tallon:

A watch is often viewed through the lens of a utilitarian device, focused on function and accuracy. The real joy of the LIP watches designed by Roger Tallon comes from the incorporation of playfulness into watch manufacturing.

 

In 1972 he set up the agency Design Programmes which operated as brother-in-arms with the LIP watchmakers. In 1972 he was approached by LIP to design a new series of sports watches. He proposed the Mach 2000 collection, a striking array of forward thinking designs, many with asymmetrical cases.

 

Roger Tallon:

Roger Tallon was a French Industrial designer.

He studied as an engineer between 1944-1950 and was then employed by Caterpillar France and DuPont. In 1953 he joined Technes, the technical and aesthetic studies office, which was founded in 1949 by the father of industrial aesthetics, Jacques Vienot and Jean Parthenay. After a series of rapid promotions, he become the technical and artistic director, finally being sole director after Vienots death in 1959.

 

In 1957 he enrolled at the School of Applied Arts, in Paris and put in place the first design course in the country.

 

As a consultant for the US company General Electric, Tallon designed refrigerators and washing machines, setting up the design department of the company. In 1966 the Teleavia P111 portable television was put on the market, against the Boards advice. It subsequently broke the mould of TV design and was a huge commercial success, developing a cult following.

 

He had a remarkably varied half-century as a design, trying his hand at everything from staircases, chairs, watches, televisions and the French TGV Atlantique bullet train. He also created a concept aircraft cabin for Air France.

 

This example:

The dial is has the Tachymetre chapter ring which is around the exterior. It is angled to fall and meet the dial. The dial is a matte black tone with the white signing. The minute/hour dashes are white with the 1/5th second track and the hour markers have the thicker baton design. The dial is simply signed ‘LIP Mach 2000’ below 12 O’clock. The sub-track for the day of the week is in French and is at 9 O’clock with the white sub-dial hand. The date sub-track is a bright florescent-green with the matching tone on the date indicator hand. The moonphase is set above 6 O’clock with the cut out of the dial. The disc has the dark blue tone of the night sky, with the gold tone moon and stars. The hands are of a broad baton style with the matte white tone to the hours and minutes. The central second hand is a yellow tone with the futuristic design, lacking a counterbalance.

 

The case is large and impressive with the 43mm case width, 44.75mm with crown. It has a length of 40.15mm with the hidden lug design. Whilst having such a large case, it is designed to be comfortable on the wrist with a depth of just under 10mm. The case is matched by a well sized 20mm rubber strap.

It has the chrome finish to the aluminium alloy case, which is particularly uncommon. It is the asymmetrical D shaped case with the flat top and the curved edges and flat sides. It has three cut outs to the left-hand side with the blue and red dummy pusher, sandwiching the yellow ball for the crown. The rubber balls are in very good condition for the age, with minimal signs of wear. The case back snaps on and seals tightly. It has the signing ‘Etanche 30 Metres’ and the original blue film which has degraded with age.

 

Inside is the uncommon West German PUW calibre 255-259N Quartz movement with the moonphase, day and date function. The day of the week is set by cycling the hands past 24 hours whilst the moonphase and date are set by the first function on the crown.

 

It is presented on its original LIP signed rubber strap, which is in excellent condition for the age.

 

The watch is functioning and is keeping accurate time. The handset going forwards isn’t as smooth as it should be, however the hands set smoothly backwards.

 

Please see the images as these compliment and aid the description provided below.

A further condition report is below.

 

Dial:

The dial is original and is in perfect condition.

 

Hands:

The hands are original and in perfect condition.

 

Glass:

The original acrylic crystal is in very good condition.

 

Crown:

The crown and pushers are original and are in good condition with minimal wear to the rubber.

 

Case:

The case is anodised Aluminium with the chrome finish. There are some slight blemishes to the chrome around 10-11 O’clock.  

 

Caseback:

The snap on back is original and is in perfect condition with the original plastic film.

 

Strap:

The watch is on its original Rubber LIP band which is in very good condition.

 

Movement:

Inside is the uncommon West German PUW calibre 255-259N Quartz movement with the moonphase, day and date function. The day of the week is set by cycling the hands past 24 hours whilst the moonphase and date are set by the first function on the crown.

 

The watch is functioning and is keeping accurate time, with a new battery fitted. The handset going forwards isn’t as smooth as it should be, however the hands set smoothly backwards.

 

Case Dimensions:

Case width: 43mm

Case width with crown: 44.75mm

Case length: 40.15mm

Case length lug to lug: 40.15mm

Case Depth: 9.75mm

Lug width: 20mm

1980s LIP Mach 2000 Moonphase calendar Prototype watch PUW 255-259N

£1,000.00Price
Quantity
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